Price it
Price it here, before you call anyone.
A few questions, a range in about a minute. The calculator uses the rates we quote with — a site visit pins the exact number.
Instant fence & deck estimate
01 / 09- Basics
- Style
- Site
- Photos
- Budget
Price it
A few questions, a range in about a minute. The calculator uses the rates we quote with — a site visit pins the exact number.
Instant fence & deck estimate
01 / 09Composite decking prices per square foot in the GTA — board-only versus installed, by brand and grade, and how the substructure affects the total.
Composite boards are sold in tiers, and the tier is mostly about the shell. Entry-level product is uncapped or capped on three sides, mid-tier is fully capped, and the top tier adds a denser cap with more convincing colour and grain variation. The cap is what resists staining and fading, so the price difference between tiers is largely a durability and appearance difference rather than a structural one.
Board profile matters too. Solid boards cost more than scalloped or hollow ones and feel more like lumber underfoot. Width and length options affect waste, and on a deck with an unusual footprint the offcuts are a real part of the material cost.
A price per square foot for boards alone is not the cost of a composite deck surface, and comparing two quotes on board price can be misleading. The surface needs more than boards:
Composite costs more than pressure-treated lumber upfront and removes the recurring cost of stain and sealer. Whether that trade favours you depends on how long you intend to keep the deck. We price the surface and the frame it requires together, as one fixed written price, so the comparison is a real one.
Composite is one option among four, and the right one depends on what you are optimising for.
| Surface | Maintenance | Appearance and feel |
|---|---|---|
| Pressure-treated lumber | Re-sealing periodically | Still unbeaten on upfront cost |
| Composite | Washing | Holds up well, and never looks quite like real wood up close |
| PVC | The lowest of the four, with the best colour retention | No wood content at all, lighter, and the highest price |
| Western red cedar | Needs re-sealing to stay the way it looks new | Natural appearance, cooler underfoot in sun, and it can be refinished when it weathers |
There is no single best surface. There is the right trade between upfront cost, the maintenance you are willing to do, and how you want the deck to look in ten years.
Four hundred square feet of composite is a major deck and the surface material alone is a large line item, because composite is priced well above pressure-treated per square foot and the tier matters — entry-level, capped composite, and PVC are three distinct price points. On top of the surface, the cost drivers are the same as any deck this size: the height off grade, which decides whether a full perimeter guard and a long stair run are needed, the railing system you choose, the footing count set by the framing design, and access for delivering material. At this footprint a permit will normally be required in GTA municipalities. Hidden fasteners and picture-framed edges are usual on a deck this visible and are quoted as options. We measure and issue one fixed written price.
Composite decking is imported and distributed regionally, so board pricing varies less across Canada than the cost of building the deck underneath it does. The regional factor is the structure: in southern Ontario every footing has to bear below a deep frost line, so the foundation work behind the same square footage is more substantial than in a mild coastal climate. Snow load also influences framing design.
Within the surface itself, the tier you choose — uncapped, capped composite or PVC — moves the price more than geography does. Railing choice, deck height, stairs and site access then complete the picture. Because a national average tells you almost nothing about your own yard, we size the frame to Ontario code for your deck and quote the specific board you select as a fixed written price.
Five hundred square feet is a large surface, and at that area the board tier you choose has the biggest effect on the total — the gap between entry-level composite and PVC across five hundred square feet is considerable. Beyond boards, you are paying for the framing and footings that carry them, and some composite products require closer joist spacing than wood, which adds lumber at this scale. Waste matters too: board lengths, the deck's shape and any picture framing or diagonal pattern change how much material is actually ordered versus the bare square footage. Fascia to close the edges, hidden fasteners, and the railing system are quoted separately because they are real choices. We calculate the board order from the actual layout rather than the nominal area and put one fixed price in writing.
Per-board pricing is how suppliers sell composite, and a twenty-foot board costs more than a sixteen-foot one of the same product — but board price is a poor way to budget a deck. Two boards at the same length can differ substantially because of the product tier: uncapped composite, capped composite with a protective outer shell, and PVC are distinct price levels, and grooved boards for hidden fasteners differ from square-edge boards. Longer lengths also cost more per foot to buy but generate less waste and fewer butt joints on a long deck, so they can work out better overall. What we quote is the installed deck, with the board order calculated from your actual layout, because that is the number that decides your cost rather than a shelf price per stick.
It depends what you are optimising for. For the lowest maintenance and the best colour retention, PVC decking sits above composite — it has no wood content at all, so it will not absorb moisture or stain, and it is lighter, at a higher price. For natural appearance and feel underfoot, western red cedar beats composite outright, stays cooler in sun and can be refinished when it weathers, but it needs re-sealing to stay that way.
For lowest cost, pressure-treated lumber is still unbeaten. There is no single best surface, only the right trade between upfront cost, maintenance you are willing to do, and how you want the deck to look in ten years. We build in all of them and will walk you through the trade for your specific deck rather than steer you to one.
Four hundred square feet of composite is a major deck and the surface material alone is a large line item, because composite is priced well above pressure-treated per square foot and the tier matters — entry-level, capped composite, and PVC are three distinct price points. On top of the surface, the cost drivers are the same as any deck this size: the height off grade, which decides whether a full perimeter guard and a long stair run are needed, the railing system you choose, the footing count set by the framing design, and access for delivering material. At this footprint a permit will normally be required in GTA municipalities. Hidden fasteners and picture-framed edges are usual on a deck this visible and are quoted as options. We measure and issue one fixed written price.
Composite decking is imported and distributed regionally, so board pricing varies less across Canada than the cost of building the deck underneath it does. The regional factor is the structure: in southern Ontario every footing has to bear below a deep frost line, so the foundation work behind the same square footage is more substantial than in a mild coastal climate. Snow load also influences framing design. Within the surface itself, the tier you choose — uncapped, capped composite or PVC — moves the price more than geography does. Railing choice, deck height, stairs and site access then complete the picture. Because a national average tells you almost nothing about your own yard, we size the frame to Ontario code for your deck and quote the specific board you select as a fixed written price.
Five hundred square feet is a large surface, and at that area the board tier you choose has the biggest effect on the total — the gap between entry-level composite and PVC across five hundred square feet is considerable. Beyond boards, you are paying for the framing and footings that carry them, and some composite products require closer joist spacing than wood, which adds lumber at this scale. Waste matters too: board lengths, the deck's shape and any picture framing or diagonal pattern change how much material is actually ordered versus the bare square footage. Fascia to close the edges, hidden fasteners, and the railing system are quoted separately because they are real choices. We calculate the board order from the actual layout rather than the nominal area and put one fixed price in writing.
Per-board pricing is how suppliers sell composite, and a twenty-foot board costs more than a sixteen-foot one of the same product — but board price is a poor way to budget a deck. Two boards at the same length can differ substantially because of the product tier: uncapped composite, capped composite with a protective outer shell, and PVC are distinct price levels, and grooved boards for hidden fasteners differ from square-edge boards. Longer lengths also cost more per foot to buy but generate less waste and fewer butt joints on a long deck, so they can work out better overall. What we quote is the installed deck, with the board order calculated from your actual layout, because that is the number that decides your cost rather than a shelf price per stick.
It depends what you are optimising for. For the lowest maintenance and the best colour retention, PVC decking sits above composite — it has no wood content at all, so it will not absorb moisture or stain, and it is lighter, at a higher price. For natural appearance and feel underfoot, western red cedar beats composite outright, stays cooler in sun and can be refinished when it weathers, but it needs re-sealing to stay that way. For lowest cost, pressure-treated lumber is still unbeaten. There is no single best surface, only the right trade between upfront cost, maintenance you are willing to do, and how you want the deck to look in ten years. We build in all of them and will walk you through the trade for your specific deck rather than steer you to one.
